July 2-9, 2013
We
were looking forward to getting back over to Elba and exploring the historic island properly but first came the
bag drag at the supermarket to stock the boat with provisions for the next ten
days or so. With that done, after casting off we made a stop at the fuel dock
and topped Alcheringa’s diesel tank
to the brim ready for the next stage of our travels.
As
is often the case in this part of the world, there was very little wind in the
morning but by waiting until after lunch we were able to enjoy a very pleasant
sail from the marina at Salivoli over
to Capo Della Vita on the north
eastern tip of Isola di Elba (The
island of Elba). Well it was pleasant apart from the stress of dodging the
constant stream of huge, fast ferries that run constantly to and from the
island from the mainland.
Thankfully we have AIS on the boat but even than dodging these guys coming for you from all directions gets a little stressful. |
Salivoli to Capo Della Vita, Elba – 6.0 Nautical Miles – 1 Hours 17 Minutes
Average Speed 4.7 Knots – Max Speed 6.3 knots |
The
anchorage at Capo Della Vita was
beautiful with more crystal clear water, a small islet just off the coast which
provided some shelter, a vibrant but uncrowded beach scene and a range of
lovely villas dotted amongst the tree filled hillside backing the shoreline. We
wasted no time getting into the water straight off the back of the boat while
Marc and Caroline took the dingy ashore to check out the café on the point and
enjoy the beach.
We
were treated to a great dinner of whole, baked fish Karen prepared and an
awesome sunset. It was followed next morning by an even better sunrise for those
of us up early enough to witness it.
We
began our trip around Elba with a short four mile hop to a nice little bay at Nisportino for a lunch stop which turned
into an overnighter when we decided it was just too good a spot to leave just
yet. More swimming, relaxing, good food and wine. Who could ask for more.
Nisportino could be described as a relaxing spot |
Capo Della Vita to Nisportino – 4.0 Nautical Miles – 1 Hours 11 Minutes |
Next morning we headed into Portoferraio, the main port and capital
of Elba. As nice as the town wall moorings looked, we resisted their attractions
and anchored out in the south side of the harbour along with forty or so other
yachts. We’d been pre-warned that the mooring charges in Portoferraio during summer are amongst the highest in the entire
Mediterranean. A free anchorage is always more attractive to us than a marina
anyway but we do enjoy the atmosphere of town wall docks when available at a reasonable cost.
One of the little holiday shacks we sailed past on Elba |
Approaching Portoferraio on Elba |
We resisted the attractive but very expensive moorings on the town wall in Portoferraio |
Nisportino to Portoferraio– 3.4 Nautical Miles – 0 Hours 46 Minutes
Average Speed 4.5 Knots – Max Speed 6.6 knots
|
We took the dingy across the bay to the
main town and headed off to explore the old historic areas with Marc and
Caroline heading one way and we another to all enjoy some ‘just us’ time. The harbour
and old town clinging to the steep, rocky headland behind it are both extremely
beautiful. We had a great time climbing up the narrow laneways lined with
brightly coloured bougainvillea flowers cascading over the stone walls as we
made our way towards the Castillo and one of the two residences used by
Napoleon during his exile on the island.
Our climb to the top of Portoferraio was punctuated by colour |
The Castillo atop Portoferraio was our ultimate target |
The 360 degree views from the top were
well worth all the effort in the heat. Whichever direction you looked you were
either treated to visions of the azure blue waters surrounding the island or
character filled stone buildings which no doubt could reveal some many amazing
stories if only they could speak. Unfortunately we found Napoleon’s coastal
residence was closed for restoration works but considering all the other jewels
we discovered on our climb we didn’t really care.
The Castillo atop Portoferraio provided fantastic views |
Before leaving the boat, Karen had
consulted the ever reliable www.tripadvisor.com to
research our lunch options and as a result we made our way to Caffescondido and were well rewarded
with an outstanding but well priced meal in an extraordinary location on a
small terrace overlooking the harbour. The husband and wife, chef, wait staff
team provided excellent and very helpful service as we enjoyed our fantastic,
fresh seafood and local wine. Rob’s calamari in octopus ink did turn his tongue
and lips very black for a while but the cleansing attributes of the crisp local
white wine solved that problem. On the way back to the dingy we booked a small
hire car for the for the following morning to explore more widely around this
very unique island.
While Marc and Caroline elected to enjoy
a day on the beach at Portoferraio
the next day, we made a beeline for Napoleon’s main residence on Elba. For a
guy who was exiled to the island by the Brits after losing a battle or two he
didn’t exactly do it tough on Elba. The reception room of his little shack is
seventy metres long while the entire exterior is lined with huge Ns for
Napoleon and his personal crest.
This is how the Brits punished Napoleon by banishing him to live in this hovel on Elba. |
This reception room stretched for 70 metres. |
Karen by Napoleon’s front door. Note the N and personal crest all the way around the top of the building. |
All the upper floor, was hand painted to
resemble the interior of the campaign tent he used during his conquests in
Egypt. It must have been some tent, that’s for sure. From his bedroom he could
look over the largest terrace we’ve ever seen, straight down his half mile long,
tree lined driveway and across the valley to the waters of Portoferraio itself. He really should of stayed here and enjoyed
his retirement instead of sneaking off back to France to get his but whipped at
the Battle of Waterloo. As a result of that little adventure he ended up dying
a lonely man in exile on the godforsaken rock island of St Hellena deep in the cold South Atlantic.
What was Napoleon’s bedroom on Elba |
Napoleon’s Egyptian room. |
Yes that is real gold and yes it is worth an Emperor’s ransom. |
When he had it so good on Elba we still can’t understand why Napoleon left the place. |
Travelling further west along the coast
we passed many very attractive bays and crossed a number of rocky headlands
before heading up into the steep mountains behind the coast. Here we came
across the very old village of Poggio
with a delightful little church called Chiesa
si San Niccolo and glorious stone houses clinging to a ridgeline on the
side of the island’s highest mountain, Monte
Capanne. It had truly spectacular views down the valleys and over the
Mediterranean. We just had to stop and
have a wander around the narrow, flower filled lanes and take in the limitless
charm of this delightful medieval settlement.
The north coast of Elba features many great bays and beaches. |
The medieval village of Poggio was awash with summer flowers |
We enjoyed some excellent coffee and even better views in Poggio |
Karen in Poggio with Marcianna in the background. |
After a coffee looking out over the
views, we followed the narrow twisting road to Poggio’s neighbouring village. If we liked Poggio, we fell in love with Marcianna.
It is one of the most ancient and interesting medieval towns on the whole
island. The local citizens enthusiastically embrace the town’s heritage and not
only eagerly protect its historic appearance but they even ALL dress up in
medieval attire for a weeklong festival each year. Here we were able to explore
a Pisan fortress, a series of delightful religious buildings and meander up and
down narrow cobble stone lanes and alleyways lined with very old stone
buildings, all looking identical to how they would have appeared hundreds of
years ago.
Marcianna is even higher on the side of Monte Capanne than Poggio |
The climb to the top of the fortress was well worth the effort. |
Every building in Marcianna was perfectly presented. |
Poggio on the left and Marcianna on the right viewed from the water when we sailed by next day. |
After a very nice lunch enjoying yet
more great views of the Tuscan archipelago and all the way across to Corsica,
we followed the winding road further upwards and crested the mountain range
just to the east of Monte Capanne and
twisted our way down past a 12th century watchtower overlooking Marina di Campo on the south coast. As
we planned to bring the boat around here the next day we went and checked out
the moorings on the town wall and the town itself discovering a thriving
tourist centre based around a stunning, 1500 metre long, golden sand beach. We
then had a nice drive along the southern coast before cutting back through the
centre of the island to Portoferraio and
the end of a fantastic day’s exploring.
Climbing up Elba’s mountain range through chestnut forests. |
We had a great view over Marina di Campo from the top. |
12th Century watchtower to keep a lookout for Moorish pirates. |
A fantastic sunset in Portoferraio to end our day |
Leaving Portoferraio |
Anchored off the 1500 metre long beach at Marina di Campo . |
The Italians are a pretty laid back mob. |
On July 6th we celebrated one full year since we moved onto Alcheringa in Palma Mallorca. |
Karen’s art studio isn’t as fancy as her previous one but the view’s a lot better. |
Portoferraio to Marina Di Campo – 24.8 Nautical Miles – 5 Hours 03 Minutes
Average Speed 4.9 Knots – Max Speed 7.1 knots |
By Monday morning our water tanks were
getting low so we raised the anchor and headed for the town wall moorings in
the small harbour area of Marina di Campo
where we could top up. Most of the wall is taken up with permanent berths for
local fishing, dive and tour boats but the five spots on the end of the wall
are available to visiting boats on a best in best dressed basis. We made our
way over and hung around circling just outside the harbour until a couple of
yachts that had spent the night vacated. This was our first true Mediterranean mooring
experience. Rather than ground lines to the harbour floor being in place, we
needed to drop our anchor at ninety degrees to the wall directly in front of our
berth and reverse in letting out the anchor chain as we went. We then run lines
to the dock to hold the stern but it is up to our anchor to hold the bow in
line and in place.
With Marc handling the stern lines and
Rob on the helm, Karen was on the bow and dropped the anchor precisely on his
call as we backed towards the dock crowded with onlookers. Despite a reasonable
cross wind blowing and a few first time nerves all seemed to go perfectly. With
Alcheringa nicely secured Rob and
Marc were busy congratulating each other when Karen quietly pointed out how
close we had gone to coming unstuck. There was less than half a metre of our 45
metres of chain left in the anchor locker. If we had dropped the anchor even a
few seconds earlier as we reversed back we would of run out of chain and
embarrassingly pulled up short of the dock. All’s well that ends well but we
will certainly know not to cut it so fine next time.
Med moored on the town wall at Marina di Campo |
They love their RIBs in the Med. Bigger the better. |
Marina
di Campo was such a contrast to Portoferraio.
Whereas Portoferraio has the
unenviable reputation as one of the dearest walls in all of the Med to dock
against, just a few kilometres across the island Marina di Campo provided exactly the same service FREE. All we had
to do was pay a very small charge for metered electricity and water. We
certainly weren’t going to decline the hospitality so we spent the night moored
up. The only downside was the two old locals that turned up at 4.30AM complete
with their chairs and began fishing, one either side of the boat, while they
chatted loudly back and forwards. Oh well, it was a public area.
Later that morning Marc and Caroline
left us to head off and do a bit more land travel in Italy and we moved on five
and half miles along the coast to spend a final day on Elba in the great
anchorage off the beach in the Golfo Di
Stella we had enjoyed so much the previous week. The following morning we
would be heading to the Island of Giglio,
the first stop on our way south to Porto
Roma, our base to explore the ancient treats of Rome.
A popular dive spot at the entrance to Golfo di Stella |
If you have
only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or
work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first
blog entry. http://dreamtimesail.blogspot.com/2011/05/stuff-it-lets-just-go-and-do-it.html We hope
you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.