The most incredible thing we have ever done - swimming with Whale Sarrks

We slide off the back of the boat and straight into a bucket-list must-do. Gliding next to the world’s largest shark, the whale shark, feeling its majesty and surprising gentleness.

You’re fearless — intoxicated by life, and something so overwhelmingly beautiful is happening to you. Breaking the surface, you can’t wait to share your experiences with your fellow crew. You know you’ve just witnessed something indelibly rare. One particular spot to observe whale sharks is Indonesia. If you’re interested in discovering whale sharks yourself, we have you covered and recommended an amazing place for you to visit.

In Saleh Bay, Sumbawa these slow-moving, filter-feeding whale sharks come to the squid boats each morning. As the squid boats raise the nets the Whale Sharks come to feed off the by product. Up to 11 tons and 12 metres long, these giants have a hugely healthy appetite… 

Taking swimming pool gulps, filtering their microscopic main course, whale sharks love warm tropical oceans, living up to 70 or more years, Sumbwa is one of the only places in the world where Whale sharks appear regularly in large numbers.

Our whale shark experience began pre dawn, with a local boat arriving to pick us up from our boat and our neighbouring friends on their catamaran. Approximately 45 minutes later we were sitting next to the squid boat waiting for the crew to hoist the nets. The excitement was building watching as the crew started to lift the nets. We were literally acting like children, squealing each time we saw another Whale Shark join the ever-ending circle around the squid boat. 

Before the sun rose over the horizon our skipper indicated for us to get into the water. He didn’t have to ask twice. Oh my Goodness ….. our life just became insanely crazy. The euphoria of being in the water with these amazing creates you just can’t put into words.

They are huge … no they are gigantic but so graceful and gentle. They know you are there they glide past you with a small flick of their tail. Then circle back around. You seriously don’t have to move they just move around you so gracefully. There are so many of them we are astounded by the number and the size of them. We feel so tiny in their world. 

We were told to avoid swimming in front of their mouths, so we don’t disturb their feeding. It’s not that they will bite you. When you see them open their mouths it’s a good idea, not be in their way! Although their mouth can stretch to four feet wide, a whale shark’s teeth are so tiny that they can only eat small shrimp, fish and plankton by using their gill rakers as a suction filter. In fact ….. they can process more than 6,000 litres of water an hour through their gills.

We spent a thrilling two hours in the water, feeling both exhilarated and exhausted by the end, though our excitement was evident. Returning to our tour boat, the chatter of five excited children filled the air. Each one sharing their unique encounters: “Did you notice the large one near the water spout?” “What about the tiny spotted one?” “One even swam so close, flicking its tail next to me.” As we sipped our hot coffee served by the crew, our conversations continued. One sentiment echoed throughout: “OMG, did we really just experience that?” “It was truly incredible.” The crew, with wide smiles, observed our reactions. They understand this feeling well, witnessing it each time they guide a small group of up to six guests to meet the majestic Whale sharks. Now, we too belong to the exclusive group that has encountered these gentle giants in their domain.

We all felt that they had individual personalities and they had their own markings, so after a time you could recognise the same whale shark coming around. Some of us felt the smaller ones were playful, swimming purposely over and under us. But what we all realised is that this experience will be hard to top.

Whale shark tourism is one of the key sources of income to the community on 

Sumbawa Island, with peak whale shark sighting season running from April to October, however they still can be seen all year round. Thanks to the rich feeding grounds here, these whale sharks are permanent residents, rather than migratory like most other whale sharks.  Marine Parks are working to educate communities, local fisherman and those involved with tourism about the conservation of whale sharks. You can experience whale shark conservation tourism at Labuan Jambu, a village near the bay.

You can see evidence of their conservation work as they continue monitoring these sharks and conduct surveys every couple of years to check their population is thriving. We saw a number of Whale sharks with transducers on them.

The harsh reality of tourism.

The Whale shark tourism industry is currently thriving in Indonesia, leading to some operators charging exorbitant prices for the experience. For instance, we received a quote of up to 375€ per person through a booking agency, which is far above the standard rate. Unfortunately, many visitors end up paying these inflated prices to witness these magnificent creatures. Regrettably, these additional costs do not benefit the local community but instead go straight into the profit margin of international booking agents. It is advisable to explore other options, such as booking with a local boat operator dedicated to preserving the Whale Sharks. Below, we suggest a private local operator based on their exceptional service and reasonable prices, with no affiliation to our recommendation.

Some of the things our tour agent did we feel above and beyond what other tours offered.

- private tour of maximum 6 guests.

- no Whale Sharks sighted no payment. We paid cash on the day. (2.5 million IDR = $250 AUS for 5 of us we could of had 6 same price)

- suggested a good anchorage for us to sail to the day prior to our tour.

- asked us to send him the coordinates of our position for pick up in the morning 

- confirmed with us when we sent the coordinates that we were happy with the anchorage he suggested (it was brilliant)

- requested we have our deck lights on and fenders down for coming a long side, for pick up. The skipper was awesome didn’t even come close to the fenders and we were able to get safely onboard. 

- three crew onboard, skipper, guide and deckhand.

Our Tour was conducted through Sumbawa Whale Shark Tours 

WhatsApp  +62  85337214814

You can watch the YouTube Episode ▶️ The most incredible experience swimming with Whale Sharks

Diving Tips & Codes of Conduct

Whale sharks are endangered species and are very vulnerable to being overexploited. That’s why it is important to protect these creatures by implementing whale shark conservation and safety. It is our responsibility to look after these amazing gentle giants whilst we swim with them.

Satonda Island emerged as a mysterious volcano 10,000 years ago.

Satonda Island, with its captivating crater-lake, is a sight of remarkable beauty that you shouldn't miss on your sail to Lombok. This island was established as a Marine Nature Park in 1999 and continues to be a protected area, surrounded by vibrant coral reefs ideal for scuba diving and snorkelling. Spanning three kilometers from north to south, this island with coral-fringed shores presents an intriguing geographical feature.

The island is essentially a volcano cone, forcefully rising after an eruption occurred 1000 meters below the sea floor millions of years ago. The caldera filled with water has formed a stunning lake nestled at the core of the island, just fifty meters from the shoreline. Despite its brackish nature, the water is crystal clear and refreshingly cool for swimming, reaching depths of over 80 meters.

A delightful shaded pathway encircles the lake, providing a leisurely stroll. Look out for the fruit bats that reside in the trees surrounding the area. Evidence of the island's volcanic past can be spotted on the main beach, scattered with pumice stone, a lightweight volcanic material that floats on water.

Satonda Island serves as a popular stopover for cruisers traveling between Flores, Labuan Bajo, and Lombok. Due to its proximity to the Sumbawa's Mt Tambora peninsula, it has also become a favoured detour for climbers en route to or from Mt Tambora volcano.

The link between Satonda Island and the catastrophic eruption of Mount Tambora in 1815 has drawn numerous scientists to study the area. Legend has it that the lake was once filled with freshwater until the massive eruption caused a tidal wave to inundate it with seawater. While this tale adds a fascinating element, its accuracy remains uncertain. But hey it’s a great story!

Once, Mount Tambora raised as high as 4,300 m above sea level. The eruption of 1815, the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history, killed over 100,000 people and caused a climate cooling in 1816, know as year without summer. Today, Mount Tambora stands at about 2,722 m and has a 1,100 m deep caldera.

European scientists have noted that the salinity of Lake Satonda surpasses that of regular seawater. The inception of saltwater in the lake coincided with the formation of the old crater of Satonda around 10,000 years ago. The flora and fauna residing in Satonda Lake resemble those found in ancient seas, making it a compelling research destination for many experts. The site holds numerous discoveries waiting to be unveiled.

The lake is not the sole attraction here; a volcanic sandy shoreline with clear, tranquil waters is perfect for swimming and snorkelling. Snorkeler's will be captivated by the shallow reefs surrounding the island, showcasing a diverse array of tropical fish in various sizes and colors. Satonda Island is renowned for its unique corals like Nephtea and Labophyton, snd get a glimpse into coral conservation efforts while snorkelling.

The unique black sand of a volcano 

Our next endeavour was a trek to a lookout point along the southern rim of the crater. While most of the path consists of steps, the upper portion transitions into a challenging dirt trail. However, those brave enough to undertake this 45-minute hike will be rewarded with a breathtaking view from the top. The ridge provides a panoramic vista of the lake and the towering Mt Tambora on Sumbawa. It is advisable to embark on this journey early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Remember to carry an ample water supply, regardless of the time of day. You will have company on this hike, as mischievous monkeys chatter in the trees and often scamper across the path.

For those seeking a more relaxed adventure, consider kayaking or paddle boarding  on the lake. The serene waters offer a leisurely paddle, with opportunities to observe bats, monkeys lounging in the trees, and the beautiful birdlife souring high and circling  the lake. The crater's formation creates an amphitheater, allowing you to immerse yourself in the harmonious sounds of the rainforest at water level.

Due to its unique charm, Satonda Island has become a sought-after destination for travellers, both local and international, making it a must-visit spot for many. Despite the challenging access, visitors need to be dedicated to reach the island. However those of us with our own boats can enjoy the tranquility and mysteries of Satonda most of the time undisturbed, this exclusivity adds to the appeal of our travel choice.

Satonda Island welcomes visitors year-round, with most cruisers arriving in the middle to late August after exploring Komodo National Park. When anchoring, it's crucial to be cautious to avoid damaging coral heads with anchors or chains in this Marine Park. We used SAS satellite imagery to help us find a Sandy patch. Visitors are required to pay an entrance fee of Rp150,000 per person in 2023/24.

Next Episode we will go deep into Saleh Bay to swim with the Whale Sharks.

For more information and to see the moving pictures click the play button 

▶️ https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp97

To see our adventures in Komodo National Park you can read about them here

▶️http://dreamtimesail.blogspot.com/2024/06/komodo-nation-park-essentials-to-know.html

or hit the pay button for an action packed 20 minutes to see all the highlights in the park ▶️  https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp9

Thank you for reading another of our blogs we hope you enjoyed the read. 

Cheers R&K 

Below are a selection of photos from the passage to Satonda and Satonda visit. We hope you enjoy them.

L

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Through our social media, YouTube, blog and books, our goal is to provide valuable insights to help future sailors prepare effectively. If you are heading into Indonesia you maybe further interested in 2 of our interactive Ebooks we have written. 

Indonesia Awaits - This is an interactive EBook and it is full of the information you need for visas to enter Indonesia, for yourself and crew. What boat paperwork you need and additional paperwork you will need to supply. There are links to the Government Websites for downloading or completing  online documentation. We take you through what you need to complete on these form and contacts for visa agents.

the other book 

It’s Time to Set Sail -  This is an interactive EBook and it is full of the information you need to know so that you can leave Australia via boat. The interactive links take you to the relevant government department pages to either download or complete online documents. We take you through what you need to complete on these form and contacts for export agents.

You can find both books on PAYHIP DREAMTIMESAIL  ▶️https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail

Additionally, we are sharing bi-weekly episodes of our "Dreamtime in Indonesia" Series 4, detailing our journey from Thursday Island to various Indonesian destinations. Each episode offers practical advice and showcases the remarkable people and places we encountered in Indonesia. We hope you find our content informative and enjoyable. 

• We talk about essential items such as spare parts, tools, safety equipment, and navigation aids.
• Provide tips on where to source supplies and provisions before setting sail in Indonesia.
• Share personal anecdotes or stories about unique experiences while sailing in Indonesia.
• Highlight the importance of preparation and planning for a successful sailing adventure.
• Offer insights on cultural aspects, local customs, and navigating Indonesian waters.
• We invite audience engagement by encouraging questions or comments about sailing in Indonesia.

DREAMTIME SAIL YOUTUBE ▶️ https://www.youtube.com/c/Dreamtimesail

If you would like more from us consider becoming a Patreon where you have personal contact with us through email, live FaceTime and a private group where you can ask just about anything 😜. This group gets up to date information as it’s happening, with live interactive tracks and waypoints.

Patreon’s receive many other benefits including the books we have just mentioned for free. So if you think this might be for you come on over and have a look at our Patreon Page.  

DREAMTIMESAIL PATREON ▶️ https://www.patreon.com/DreamtimeSail

Thank you for reading our latest blog update Cheers R&K 

You maybe also be interested in the following 🔽

We found paradise but we may never leave as our anchor is stuck solid. You can watch it here. 

▶️  http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87

All you need to know about Provisioning - if this is your first big adventure, provisioning can be a little daunting. This EBook helps you work out what you need, with a full interactive provisioning spreadsheet. Passage plan meals, with recipes. 

You can find more detail on this book ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/SvXry

This interactive Ebook takes from Brisbane to Horn Island without a night passage, discovering beautiful parts of the Queensland coast rarely visited. The EBook supplies all of our tracks and anchorage waypoints, with what anchoring conditions we were in. But it also gives you full details of what to see and do at each remarkable destination.

You can find out more about this EBook here ▶️  https://payhip.com/b/pxLMX

If you would like to buy all 4 of the above EBooks to help your sailing journey you can at a discount. Because you have read to this far on our blog, as a thank you we say here’s 20% off the bundle price!

So head to our book store ▶️ https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail 

and use this code at checkout  ▶️ WOTZCNM6JL

Other books you might enjoy 

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