October
30, 2012
We
chose this day for our final hop to Gibraltar based on looking at a raft of weather
forecasts which all pointed to us having some light overcast and a good offshore
breeze which would provide us with a nice reach down the twenty miles of
Spanish Coast. What the morning brought was cold rain and a weak breeze from
behind us.
Dawn over Estepona - The cloud got heavier and delivered plenty of rain |
The
boat was loaded, we’d checked out of the Estepona marina and had changed our
booking at Gibraltar so we decided we’d better go anyway. We’d also tried to
clear Spanish customs and emigration at the Harbour Master’s Office the
previous afternoon but when we arrived with our ships papers and passports, the
counter staff simply said they didn’t do that stuff. ‘Boats sail to and from Gibraltar all time, just go’. So much for
worrying about our Schengen visas.
Shortly
after we cleared the breakwater we raised the mainsail in the hope the wind
would strengthen and change to the predicted direction allowing us to sail but the
motor ended up being required for the whole trip anyway. What wind there was hardly
enough to keep the sail filled as the motor and strong current pushed us south
at good speed. The rain never let up all the way along the coast making things
quite uncomfortable as we kept watch on the scores of large ships making their
way in and out of the Mediterranean through the straits. We really had hoped
for a more pleasant farewell from Spain but it wasn’t to be.
As
we rounded Point Europa on the southern tip of Gibraltar the rain finally
eased. We were about to drop the mainsail in preparation for our approach to
the harbour when we picked up a big push along from a localised wind blowing
down off the rock. It was great to feel the boat heeling and zooming along again
even if it was only for fifteen minutes or so on the run up to the harbour
entrance.
We
radioed Queensway Quay Marina for mooring instructions and were soon securely
tucked in, stern against the wall pontoon. We’d taken just under three hours to
cover the 23.6 nautical miles at an average speed of 8.0 knots. (43.7k at
14.8kph). Customs and immigration procedures were handled by the marina office during
check in which was very civilised and within thirty minutes we were wandering
around checking out our new winter home.
Queensway Quay Marina - Gibraltar. Our winter home. Alcheringa is second yacht from right. Cats don't count. |
Unfortunately
our first few days in Queensway Quay Marina were very wet with some serious
winds howling down off the rock looming above us. There was also a serious
surge entering the marina at times which saw us resort to four stern lines plus
a pair of amidships lines run back to the pontoon and two bow lines run down to
the marina floor. Alcheringa may have been trussed up like a hog tied boar but we were still
moving around a fair bit and jerking to a stop at the end of what movement our
lines permitted. The boats each side of us are unattended having been left by
their owners for the winter and weren’t as well secured. They certainly gave our
fenders a good workout especially when the 48 footer to starboard broke a stern
line in the middle of the night. Rob wasn’t too impressed running around in heavy
rain at 3.00am using one of our spare warps to pull it back off us and get it
resecured. Good thing it’s an Aussie boat from Port Douglas. After the fun we’ve
had with German boats over the last few months it might have been the last
straw if this one had been flying a black, red and yellow flag.
The
weather has since improved and we’ve spent about an equal amount of time crossing
boat maintenance jobs off our lengthy off season to-do-list and exploring
Gibraltar. Highlights so far include discovering an amazing but tiny little Moroccan
Restaurant hidden away in a back street. It’s run by an old guy on his own and
only offers lamb or chicken kebabs or tagines but they are to die for. Gibraltar
is very British and the majority of food on offer at most places is pretty depressing standard
Brit Pub Grub so this was a great find.
Our awesome kebabs being cooked. The Tagine was fantastic |
Some things are cheap in Gibraltar. Karen's in Vodka heaven. |
We
also really enjoyed the Gibraltar Museum which is built on the site of the
Moorish Governor’s residence and includes an incredibly well preserved Moorish
baths in the basement. The museum building itself looks quite small but is like
a Tardis as we discovered more galleries around every turn covering everything
from the pre-historic occupants of the rock through the Phoenician, Moorish and
Spanish eras to Britain’s occupation and rabid defence of Gibraltar through the
Great Siege and World Wars. Admission is just 2 Euros and we spent over three
hours there and still didn’t quite see everything.
The Moorish baths in the Gibraltar Museum are very well a visit. |
For
more about our travels and lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/DreamtimeSail?ref=hl
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