Sunday 17 March 2024

“In the midst of paradise, we found a haunting past..."

Before reaching Buru, we had studied its history, a customary practice of ours before visiting new destinations. It was surprising to discover that this was actually the “Island of Tabu”, a place that had been off-limits to visitors for years as it served as a location for political prisoners.


An island of raw beauty and untold stories, Buru is a testament to the resilience of the Indonesian spirit. It's an emblem of forgotten history and a witness to one of the greatest atrocities of the 20th century. 


The third largest island in the Maluku Islands, Indonesia, is situated between the Banda Sea to the south and the Seram Sea to the north, west of Ambon and Seram islands. We have sailed across the northern shores of Seram, taking in some amazing destinations that you only see on postcards. Then we skipped across to Pulau Manipa, a magical stop with pristine reef under turquoise waters. Now we are heading to an Island that changed global history forever.




Hidden amongst Indonesia's myriad of enchanting islands, it continues to echo with the stories of a time best forgotten. This island and its people have seen such turmoil over the centuries. In the 16th–17th centuries the Buru territory was claimed by the rulers of Ternate island and by the Portuguese; both claims were however symbolic, as neither party controlled the island but only visited it on trade matters. Buru traditionally grew cloves, and this lucrative crop was a source of much of its trouble.


Indonesia was the Dutch West India Companies central hub that controlled the valuable spice trade

Between 1658 - 1942, the Dutch East India Company and later the Crown of the Netherlands colonized it. The Dutch authorities oppressed the locals and forcibly moved numerous local villages to the newly constructed island capital, Namlea, in Kayeli Bay to work on clove plantations. Then the island was occupied by the Japanese forces between 1942 and 1945. Following the war, Buru remained under Dutch influence and in 1950 became part of independent Indonesia. 


Remnants of the fort once in the hand Dutch West Indies Company 


You would think the people of Buru could now relax and get on with their lives, until, they were part of a larger plan for the Suharto era of 1960s–1970s. Buru was an exile for Indonesia's "communist" political prisoners. These were not just the revolutionaries, but the teachers, journalists, artists, intellectuals, and politicians, a generation of Indonesia’s brightest minds taught to be silent.


Upon us reaching Namlea, the bustling capital of Buru Island, we discovered a vibrant town brimming with activity. The majestic Mosque overlooks the shore, and the daily market is just a short stroll from the dinghy dock. Our visit was to meet up with the Wonderful Indonesian Rally after a couple of weeks exploring remote areas of Indonesia. While we took a more scenic route, the Rally took a more direct route to Namlea. We were excited to reunite with the rally participants and partake in the festivities.


Namlea is situated on a vast bay, with a backdrop of majestic mountain peaks. While not a typical tourist spot, it provides an authentic experience of daily life. Strolling through markets, exploring winding streets, and interacting with locals, mainly by engaging in a game of charades, made our visit memorable. Although not a destination to seek out, Namlea offers essential supplies like fuel and fresh provisions. Our dining experience at a local seafood restaurant was exceptional, with fish so fresh they came straight from the sea.



Today walking through the energetic capital Namlea, it's hard to imagine the tragedies this island has endured. The Becak (rickshaws) shuttle people back and forth along the foreshore, evoking a nostalgic vibe. Besides that, this city resembles many others in Indonesia. Street vendors sell their goods, Warungs buzz with locals enjoying delicious cuisine, and the traditional market boasts the freshest of produce and a variety of Indonesian delicacies.






We indulge in beautiful meals at local restaurants and take coffee in a cafe. The bustling seaport city, known for its stunning Mosque overlooking the waterfront, is a hub for exporting spices that were once highly sought and fought over by the English, Portuguese, Spanish, and Dutch. Today, the locals can cultivate and sell their own spices. The spice trade has long been a vital aspect of life in the Maluku Islands, predating its discovery by the European market. Centuries before, the Chinese had established trade relations with the islanders.



However we were interested in finding out more about the period of history on the Island when it was in lockdown. We had trouble finding anyone that would speak of the past, it is certainly something that is not spoken about. Nevertheless, there are residents here today who experienced this significant event in global history. While some attribute all responsibility to the Suharto Regime, delving deeper reveals evidence implicating other major nations in the events.


Over half a century ago, on a day shrouded by the smoke of tragedy, life as we all knew it changed. Over 500,000 lives - some argue up to three million - were extinguished at the hands of the army under Suharto. The world watched silently as a genocide unfolded and Australia, Indonesia’s closest neighbor, was complicit.


This massacre led to a turning point in Indonesian history, casting a long shadow over their vibrant cultures and politics. The Indonesian Communist Party, once a powerful entity, was eradicated through violent purges and systematic imprisonment.


50 year reunion of survivors from Buru Island prisoner camps PHOTO CRIDIT WIKIPEDIA 

The ghosts of Buru tell not only a tale of immense loss, but also of the foreign powers that played a role. The US, with its covert provision of weapons, communication equipment, and lists of known communists, played an undeniable part.


Once this paradisiacal island was a forbidden land, off-limits to outsiders. Today, the ban might have lifted but the visitors are still a rarity. The remnants of an unforgettable era, however, are still evident in the several sites dedicated to those lost during the Indonesia Killings of 1965-66.


Buried beneath the surface of Buru's beautiful untouched landscapes is a story that needs to be told. So, we encourage you to visit this alluring island, to learn, and to remember. Experience the raw beauty of Buru, while honoring the memory of those who were silenced too soon. With each step on this island, we pay tribute to the past and look towards a better future. Remember, to understand where we are going, we must never forget where we came from.


Join us next time: From the capital Namlea, we continue our journey to the western side of Buru to the magical little village of Nanaly, and Pulau Tomahu. To take part in Indonesia)s Independence Day celebrations.


You can see our time in Namlea here ▶️ https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp89


For more reading of Buru History


Australia’s role in this international event ▶️ https://www.internationalaffairs.org.au/australias-role-in-the-1965-66-communist-massacres-in-indonesia/


Tribunal 1965 ▶️https://www.tribunal1965.org/en/monument-a-rare-but-clouded-window-into-indonesia-massacres/


The Diplomat ▶️

https://thediplomat.com/2019/05/to-buru-island-a-journey-to-the-dark-side-of-indonesias-past/


#HistoryOfBuru #RememberingThePast

















If you would like to see the moving pictures of how we released the stuck chain and anchor you can watch it here. 👉  http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87





Thank you to all who support us through watching our videos, reading our blogs or who step up and support us though Patreon and Ko-Fi. You inspire us everyday to be creative 🙌

You can help us out and support our creative work for FREE. 
By watching, 👍, 🔔, Subscribing, Commenting and best of all Sharing this video or blog with your friends 

If you would like to make a donation towards our creative work, you can by heading over to Ko-Fi they take no fees so the support goes directly into helping us buy and upgrade equipment 


Do you want more? 
Patreon gives you that … you get behind the scenes updates, 
Patreon only photos and posts, you can watch our 
episodes ad free and before they go public … you get it first!


Another way of support is through buying from our store.
Checkout the range of books we have available 

Tuesday 12 March 2024

So what’s cooking in Our Galley Today?

 

Bakso has become one of my favourite dishes to eat


We love street food dishes you can easily make at home, and Bakso is no exception. Bakso has become one of my favourite dishes to eat, even in the steaming hot weather. It is a simple Indonesian dish of meatballs and soup. Like many other dishes in Indonesia, it grew out of Asian and European influences in the country. Throughout Indonesia, there are many variations of bakso, but all of them include three main ingredients: broth, noodles, and meatballs.




Find the recipe by following the links to Our Galley.

Tuesday 5 March 2024

Our Ten Year Love Affair with a beautiful Canadian Lady of the Sea


Time flies when you are having fun and these words definitely describe the last decade. Today marks the day ten years ago that we took ownership of Our Dreamtime, a Canadian built Whitby42 Ketch that we love even more as time goes by. 



Rewinding those 10 years the story goes like this. Karen was in charge of finding suitable boats in our price range and organising appointments with brokers to show us over boats. We had a definite budget, a “must have” features list, a “that would be nice list” and a definite “don’t want” list. However we were open to view any boat in our budget.


On the day that had been arranged with our broker Anita to view 6 boats, we were walking down the Marina dock to inspect the first of 6. Picture this, broker leading the way and us following, when Karen starts to give the run down of attributes about the first boat we are about to view, so far all sounded good, then she said “However she has a few things we definitely DON’T want, namely she’s a ketch and she’s navy blue”. I’m not sure what our broker thought at the time but she could definitely feel the temperature change and a certain cold wind starting to blow down the dock from Rob’s direction.


It just shows that if you walk into a situation with an open minds the world can tilt in your favour. Yes a navy blue ketch has become our floating home and pride and joy for the past 10 years. She has safely carried us and will continue to take us for many more years to amazing destinations that you can only do if you have a lady like her.


So why didn’t we want a ketch? We had only sailed one ketch previously and her owner implied that there were too many sails to deal with and we only ever sailed her “jib and jigger” (mizzen and genoa). We incorrectly assumed and miss understood the way ketches can be very good for shorthanded sailing. We also had the image that ketches are old school and not very “sexy”. 


So navy blue boats! Yes we have all heard the story they are hot, they take extra work to look after especially as the paint oxidation can make your boat look very unloved. Thankfully Our Dreamtime was built in Ontario Canada and was insulted for the cold which of course reduces temperatures in the tropical heat as well and yes we do need to be more careful with coming along side a dock or local canoes banging against the hull. Her glorious navy blue is still deep blue and apart from a good wash and polish occasionally she still looks as beautiful as the first day we saw her.


Thank you ‘Our Dreamtime’ for safely carrying us thousands of nautical miles to experiences we could never have imagined. May we sail many more miles together and continue living everyday to the fullest. 


If you would like to see the full boat tour of Our Dreamtime you can catch them here


https://tinyurl.com/Boat-tour-part-1


https://tinyurl.com/Boat-tour-part-2




















If you would like to see the moving pictures of how we released the stuck chain and anchor you can watch it here. 👉  http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87






Thank you to all who support us through watching our videos, reading our blogs or who step up and support us though Patreon and Ko-Fi. You inspire us everyday to be creative 🙌

You can help us out and support our creative work for FREE. 
By watching, 👍, 🔔, Subscribing, Commenting and best of all Sharing this video or blog with your friends 

If you would like to make a donation towards our creative work, you can by heading over to Ko-Fi they take no fees so the support goes directly into helping us buy and upgrade equipment 


Do you want more? 
Patreon gives you that … you get behind the scenes updates, 
Patreon only photos and posts, you can watch our 
episodes ad free and before they go public … you get it first!


Another way of support is through buying from our store.
Checkout the range of books we have available