Imagine
strolling naked in the warm sun, hand in hand across a golden sand beach,
slipping beneath the surface of crystal
clear, azure blue water to cool off as small waves lap the shore of your own
uninhabited tropical island miles from any other human being. That, and so much
more was what we delighted in experiencing at the amazing Hummocky Island, our
first anchorage north of the Tropic of Capricorn.
Karen about to skinny dip in the glorious tropical water at Hummocky Island |
We’d
motored out of Pancake Creek in the pre-dawn light and raised the sails off
Clew Point as the sun first began to peep over the horizon. A mild wind blowing
from the East South East allowed us to turn North West and begin motor-sailing towards
Cape Capricorn. Breakfast and coffee in the cockpit followed shortly after then
we settled back for our fifty nautical mile passage. (90kilometres)
The
breeze strengthened enough that we were able to turn the motor off before eight
o’clock. The moment the noise of the diesel engine disappears the peacefulness of
travelling under sail alone takes its place. Our course bypassed the industrial
city and busy harbour of Gladstone but we did have to thread our way through
the large number of large ships laying at anchor off the port. Other than that,
all we had to do was tweak the sail trim now and then to suit the wind.
Not a view we'd enjoy if this bulk carrier was under way and not at anchor. |
Unfortunately
that wind began to drop late morning forcing us to once again motor-sail or
risk not reaching our destination until after sunset. Arriving at an unfamiliar
anchorage in the dark is something we avoid unless absolutely unavoidable. We
like to be able to see any hazards and minimise risk.
Cape Capricorn was so named by Captain James Cook in 1770 as it lies just one mile north of the Tropic of Capricorn |
We
crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, the sun’s southern limit of declination at
23degrees 30 minutes just south of the tip of Cape
Capricorn itself. We made a suitable offering to good old King Neptune, tipping
some alcohol into the sea as we passed the line. We were now officially in the
tropics at last.
Threading
our way between Fairway and Ship Rocks to the South East we rounded the high
cliffs of the Eastern headland, dropped our sails and entered the calm waters of
the bay on the northern side of Hummocky Island, 18 miles south of Great
Keppel. The further North we’ve travelled the bigger the tides so we carefully checked
our tidal information, did our calculations and dropped the anchor close into
the Eastern side of the bay in enough water to leave a metre under our keel on
the low.
The anchorage is no good in N or W and can be rolly in a strong SE or E wind but is an incredible spot. |
Pancake Creek to Hummocky Island 50.9 Nautical Miles – 8 Hours 38 Minutes Average Speed 5.9 Knots – Highest Speed 7.9 knots |
Looking
around us at Hummocky Island reinforced to us that we were now truly in the
tropics. It was stunningly beautiful with a glorious sand beach framed by high
rock cliffs each side and dense foliage rising behind. We could clearly see our
anchor buried in the clean sand six metres below the surface. The rocks lining
the point were thick with oysters. Best
of all, we had the whole place to ourselves.
Bolly and nibbles to celebrate reaching the tropics. |
After
completing our post passage chores and freshening up with nice hot showers it
was time to celebrate our finally reaching the tropics. Right on cue, a near
full moon appeared over the trees to welcome us and we popped a special bottle
of champagne given to us by a good friend before we left to save for the right occasion. Thanks John, the Bollinger
was outstanding. It went down very nicely in our new found serenity. Not to be
out done by the moon, the sun then put on a dazzling display setting behind the
western point to put a lovely full stop on our day.
The moon rises over Hummocky Island's East |
Shortly after the sun replies in the West with a magnificent sunset. |
Next
morning we were engrossed by the sight of a number of humpback whales putting
on a display of aerial acrobatics for us just beyond the island’s western
point. We witnessed synchronised breaches with two and three whales leaping
high out of the water at the same time before falling back generating huge
splashes. Tail waving was also a popular trick as was slapping the water
repeatedly with their huge fins. The show lasted almost an hour before the pod
submerged and swam on.
There's nothing like a Humpback Whale show with breakfast |
We
then loaded the dinghy with food and drinks for the day and ventured ashore to
the beach setting up our little camp in the shade of an overhanging tree. Clothing
seemed totally redundant in the circumstances but we made sure we were well
protected wearing our reef shoes, hats, sunglasses and liberal applications of
sunscreen, particularly on those usually covered white bits. Then it was off to
the rocks to gather some fresh oysters in the sunshine while the tide was low.
Despite not being able to resist eating quite a few right on the spot, it
really didn’t take long to collect a few dozen to go with our cheese and
crackers. Very decadent.
Be careful with that oyster knife Rob! |
We
then simply enjoyed the surroundings and our solitude. The weather was perfect
with clear skies and gentle South Easterly breezes. The water was beautiful, as
was the sounds of the abundant birdlife in the trees. Karen sketched, Rob read
and the hours melted away. The day was, in every way, the most complete example
of the romantic ideal of cruising the tropics on a yacht anyone could ever ask
for. It certainly set a very high standard for all the days which follow to
aspire to.
Low tide reveals rocks covered in oysters. |
Fresh rock oysters and brie cheese for a morning snack |
Karen enjoyed relaxing with her sketch pad. |
The
wind was forecast to strengthen and move to the East the following morning
which would see swell entering the bay making things uncomfortable. So sadly
this was to be our only day on gorgeous Hummocky Island – this time. We will be
back.
We’ve said all along that this was to be our shakedown
cruise so here’s the
report card for this chapter.
What worked
The sunscreen – thank goodness.
What didn’t work.
The weather. If it had co-operated we would have stayed at
Hummocky for days.
What we did right.
Chose to stop at Hummocky Island rather than push on to
the populated Great Keppel Island.
How we screwed up.
We did all our tidal calculations for anchoring based on the
tides of the first night but didn’t look further to the low tide of the second
evening which was actually much lower. There was no harm done but it was a lot
closer than we would have liked. It won't happen again. We now check the range of EVERY tide to make sure we have
plenty of water below the keel.
Good night from paradise - Hummocky Island! |
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Thank you for the great post. It looks really relaxing. Only if I could live life like what you described.
ReplyDeleteThanks semi. It was fantastic on Hummocky Island and we were lucky enough to find a few more just like it. Cheers!
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