August 19-22, 2013
After waving off our friends Tony and Lynne on the morning fast ferry to the Sicilian capital, Palermo, we were back on the dock that afternoon to welcome back Marc who was returning to the Alcheringa after a visit home to London. He also had his 16 year old nephew, Kieren, in toe for his first taste of the cruising life. They were both exhausted after a very full day of travel and a welcome meal preceded an early night all around.
Next morning Marc and Kieren took the opportunity to have a look around the delightful old town before we dropped the lines after lunch and said goodbye to Lipari. It was certainly good to get away from the washing machine like waters of the harbour and set course back to the short hop back to the relative calm of the anchorage at Vulcano.
Incredible views from the crater |
Aug 20 Lipari to Volcano – 3.4 Nautical Miles – 0 Hours 42 Minutes Average Speed 3.6 Knots – Max 6.1 Knots |
We
were anchored up by 2.00pm so Marc and Kieren headed straight ashore to do some
exploring. We’re not sure Marc realised quite how much exploring as Kieren’s
youthful enthusiasm, not to mention rugby playing fitness level, saw him
heading straight for the pathway to the top of the smoking volcano itself. Not
being one to want to disappoint, Marc dutifully strode alongside and reportedly
did a fine job of maintaining the pace despite his heavy nicotine dependence. While
Vulcano is largely a snoozing volcano, it has plumes of smoke and gas all
around the summit crater. The inside of the crater can be seen from a path
around its edge. It’s possible to see right to the bottom of the volcano. All
around the summit, fumaroles vent hot, sulphurous gas and much of the ground is
hot and stained yellow by the sulphur.
Vulcano's volcano is constantly venting sulphurous gasses |
Marc
did say he had fleeting doubts when they encountered warning signs stating that
gasses emitted around the crater could be lethal but he decided if the number
of Rothmans he’d inhaled over the years hadn’t killed him the mountain was also
unlikely to succeed. The pair were rewarded with stunning views of the
surrounding islands and a truly up close and personal experience standing at
the very rim of a smoking volcano. On the adventurers’ return to the boat,
Kieren eagerly set about trying his luck fishing bright eyed and bushy tailed while
Marc enjoyed some well deserved quiet time resting up with a glass of wine and
smoke after what was a far more strenuous climb than most would take on.
Kieren had a line in the water at every opportunity but the fish did not cooperate |
Marc contemplating if our neighbours could have anchored any closer over a glass of wine and smoke on the swim platform |
The
following day Marc and Kieren headed ashore again while we stayed aboard for a kick
back day of planned blogging for Rob and reading for Karen. That was until dark
storm clouds started to roll over the top of the mountain about lunch time accompanied
by the ominous sounds of thunder. Considering how crowded the bay was with
charter boats we’d watch anchor up around us with widely varying skills this
was serious cause for alarm. We certainly did not want any repeat of our nasty
experience in similar circumstances on Mallorca the previous year. See Ambushed by the Storm Gods in Santa Ponsa
We
decided the safest option was to clear out and get plenty of sea room around us
so on came the engine and up came the anchor. As we cleared the anchorage of
tightly packed yachts and pleasure boats we noticed all of the ferries on the
dock were also casting off and making for clear water. We just had time to
batten down and get some wet weather gear on when the storm gods unleashed with
our gauge showing gusts to 40knots accompanied by near horizontal rain that
stung any exposed flesh. As uncomfortable as it was, our only real danger was
getting run over by one of the circling ferries as visibility was non-existent
at times. Fortunately our AIS not only showed us where they were but also
showed them where we were and we were all able to avoid each other without any
real drama.
The
storm disappeared even faster than it had arrived but as we made our way back
to the anchorage we could see it had created havoc in the short time it had visited
the bay. Dozens of boats had dragged anchor with some well tangled in the float
line marking the swim zone right along the beach. Many showed battle scars
where they’d clearly bounced off each other. As we carefully re-entered the fleet we were
concerned at what Marc might have been thinking if he’d come to the beach when
we’d gone and found his boat nowhere to be seen. In all the mayhem a nice big
clear area had been created which we happily dropped anchor in and set about
drying off. As it turned out Marc and Kieren had gone to the other side of the
island where the storm had been much less dramatic and he hadn’t been worried
at all.
Unbelievably, within a hour of the storm we
had boats entering the bay and anchoring almost on top of us again. We decided
it was time to move on. We left the
smoking mountain and its sulphurous stench in our wake at Ten the next morning
and motored on glassy waters around the western side of Vulcano past stunning
cliffs and many sea caves.
Stunning sea cliffs on Vulcano |
There was hardly a breath of wind as we made our way
to a small bay at Gelso on the
southern end of the island. Even very
close to shore the sea was over 200 metres deep and incredibly blue. Karen
couldn’t resist and we drifted for a while so she could cool off in the stunningly
inviting water.
Karen insisted we stop the boat for a swim in the stunning deep blue sea. |
We
anchored off Gelso where we discovered steep cliffs rising behind an attractive
black sand beach complete with obligatory waterfront bar, umbrellas and sun
loving Italians who we soon joined ashore for a very pleasant final afternoon
in the Aeolian Islands before striking out for Sicily on the morrow.
A very enjoyable afternoon was had on the black beach at Gelso |
Our anchorage at Gelso |
Aug 22 Around Vulcano– 8.1 Nautical Miles – 1 Hours 51 Minutes Average Speed 4.3 Knots – Max 5.6 Knots |
AN
APOLOGY
Since
returning to Australia at the end of last European summer’s wanderings around
the Med, we have been extremely busy, catching up with friends and family,
finishing and publishing our first book, ‘Stuff
it. Let’s go sailing anyway’, mounting a very successful exhibition of
Karen’s artwork and buying a new boat. While spending much time preparing ‘Our
Dreamtime’ to sail off into the western Pacific and South East Asia, we’re also
working at finalising the this blog’s story of our adventures in the Med and
getting it all back to current so keep checking back for new instalments.
To stay right up to date with what we’re up to these days and see lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail Facebook page at Dreamtime Sail on Facebook
To stay right up to date with what we’re up to these days and see lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail Facebook page at Dreamtime Sail on Facebook
If you have only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway. We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.
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