April 22 -
30, 2013
Funnily enough we didn’t lay in bed for long anchored off Cabo Cullera once the sun began to lighten the sky on the eastern horizon. We’d rocked and rolled violently, beam on to the swell all night and couldn’t wait to get underway.
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| We made an early morning departure from Cabo Cullera |
Of course, there
was almost no wind again so it was to be yet another hop under motor up the
coast to Spain’s third largest city, Valencia. We’d tried to get a booking at a
marina just north of the city but unfortunately they only took boats to 12
metres. This left us with a choice between the Real Club Nautico Marina on the
southern side of the huge harbour (which we knew was expensive) or the modern
marina on the northern side that was built for the America’s Cup in 2007 (which
we suspected would be just as expensive). After contacting what is now called Marina Real Juan Carlos 1, we were
pleasantly surprised to find their berthing fees more than reasonable which
made deciding our destination very simple.
It was an
uneventful trip north along the coast but were very pleased that we now have
AIS (Automatic Identification System) fitted on Alcheringa as we approached Valencia’s busy harbour and all its
shipping traffic. We spotted one cargo ship appear on the horizon headed for
port and assumed we’d have plenty of room to pass in front of it on our way to
the marina. That was until we checked the AIS and found it was travelling at
almost 23 knots. It actually reached the harbour two miles ahead of us despite
slowing down as it approached. Those guys are fast and way too big for us to
tangle with.
We tied up
to the huge reception dock shortly after lunch and checked into the marina for
two nights before being directed to our berth on the first pontoon. Like most
marinas in the Med it was a stern or bows to mooring, but this particular
finger was designed for very large yachts. Rather than having to squeeze between
our neighbours we could have parked two Alcheringas
in the space provided. It was a nice change and one that proved invaluable
later in our stay.
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| Cabo Cullera to Valencia - 19.7 nautical miles - 4 hours 9 minutes Average speed 4.7 knots Max 6.8 knots |
After doing
our usual boat chores we then went for a stroll to explore our immediate
surroundings. The whole area on this north side of the harbour underwent a
massive redevelopment in the early 2000s to accommodate not only the America’s
Cup but also the European Formula One Grand Prix.
When the
2007 defence of the Americas Cup was held here it was the first time since the
original 1851 Isle of Wight race that the regatta had been held in Europe. It
was also the first time it had been conducted in a country different from that
of the defender. This was necessary as
despite having won the right to defend the cup back in Auckland in 2003, the
Swiss Alinghi team could not host the
regatta at home because Switzerland does not have a ‘sea or arm of the sea’ as specified in the original Americas Cup
Deed. Their huge lakes don’t qualify. Eleven challenging yacht clubs from 9
countries submitted formal entries. The challenger selection series, the Louis
Vuitton Cup, ran from April to June 2007. Emirates
Team New Zealand won the challenger series finale 5–0 against Italians’ Luna Rossa and met Alinghi between 23 June and 3 July 2007. Alinghi successfully defended the America's Cup 5–2 which meant the
2010 defence was also based here in Valencia.
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| Valencia would have been an incredible place to be during the Americas Cup. (Internet image) |
This time
however politics got in the way and after many legal challenges the 34th
Americas Cup was contested by just two boats. The match was sailed in gigantic,
specialized 90 ft (27 m) multihulls in a best-of-three race series in February
2010. The rigid wing sail of the challenging trimaran USA-17 provided a decisive advantage, and it convincingly won the
2010 America's Cup 2–0 against the defending catamaran Alinghi 5 . So ended Valencia’s reign as the home of the Americas
Cup.
Walking
around the precinct and seeing all the challengers’ team headquarters still in
place you wouldn’t know it though. Until you look closely and find them
deserted that is. I think Valencia is waiting for the Swiss to regain the cup
so all is well again. As the syndicate behind Alinghi has confirmed they will not be contesting the 2013 series
to be held in San Francisco, it seems a forlorn hope .
The European Formula
One Grand Prix run here has also suffered a chequered existence since its launch in 2008.
During the 2009 event, Valencia signed a deal for a further 5 races, which in
theory put Valencia on the calendar until 2014. There have been many doubts
about its continuation on the calendar thereafter due to disappointing
attendances. There is also increased competition between nations to host a
grand prix, leaving no room for one country to host two races. In March 2012, it was announced that the
European Grand Prix would be discontinued in 2013, with the Spanish Grand Prix
alternating between Barcelona and Valencia. As a result there will be no race
in Valencia until next year.
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| Rob in the middle of the Grand Prix track with the marina in the background |
We enjoyed
wandering along a number of sections of the actual F1 track around the marina
and nearby streets. It was cool to stand in the spot where Mark Webber came to
rest unharmed in 2010 after one of the biggest crashes of his career. A swing
bridge across the entrance to the inner, super yacht marina connects the two
sides of the race track. The very large and expensive bridge is only used
during the race week. We couldn’t help
thinking that the bridge alone would have cost more to build than our complete Willowbank
Raceway at home in Australia.
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| The massive swing bridge is only ever used during F1 race week |
Being
Formula One tragics, we have to say, it would be an incredible experience to
have Alcheringa berthed in Marina Real Juan Carlos 1 during the
race weekend. Our neighbours in the marina, British couple Steve and Jane, base
their boat here and told us that they were invited to move their yacht into the
inner marina, free, for the race weekend as the more boats onsite the better
the television pictures look. They declined because of the noise of the F1 cars
but we could think of nothing better than being tied up just ten metres from
the track, watching Formula One live and in the flesh from our floating home. Somehow
we’re not sure we would be able to talk Marc into rushing back from the Greek
Isles in time for the race next year though. Such is life.
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| We can just see ourselves moored beside the track like the rich and famous. (Internet image) |
We had planned
Tuesday April 23 as a day off during our run up the coast to Barcelona so we
could spend a little bit of time exploring the old city area of Valencia. In
the morning that’s just what we did, walking just a short distance to the other
end of the marina and catching the Number 5 Metro into the city, or so we thought.
We happily rode
the tram through the streets stopping at a few small stations before the line
went underground to a larger, multi-platform station. We sat chatting in our
seats during the stop but were a little perplexed when the doors closed and our
tram started heading back in the direction we came. A closer inspection of our
borrowed metro map showed a tiny break in the Number 5 route which apparently indicated
an interchange from tram to train. Ooops! So, after enjoying a ride out to the
marina and back, we transferred to the train and made our way the other five
stops into the old city. Hey, getting there is half the fun remember.
What we
discovered of Valencia made it all well worth the effort. The old city is full
of character with some absolutely magnificent architecture dating back many,
many hundreds of years. Like most major Spanish cities, Valencia’s history
includes, Roman, Moor and Christian periods among others.
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| This alabaster portico on the Palau de Dos Aguas was enough to catch our attention |
We came by
our first stop by accident. We were simply walking by the Palau de Dos Aguas and were instantly captivated by the incredible
alabaster portico that decorates its huge main doors. Originally a private residence,
the incredible 14th Century palace now contains a large collection
of ceramic art dating back even further as well as an eclectic range of other
items including the most amazing horse drawn carriage we’ve ever seen. The Carosa de los Nimfes (Carriage of the
Nymphs) was built for the palace’s then owner, the Marquis of Dos Aguas in 1753.
The whole box features rich ornamentation based rococo gilded wood carvings,
along with magnificent sculptures and paintings and is suspended by huge leather
straps.
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| We expect the 'Carriage of the Nymphs' would have been a succsful chick magnet in its day. What a ride. |
Many of the
rooms of the palace are presented as they were during the its time as a private
residence. This includes bedrooms, a totally ceramic kitchen and the
magnificent ballroom, still with its original furniture and hidden alcove where
the orchestra played behind a discreet screen.
Forget wallpaper in this place. Any walls not decorated in amazing
marbles or ornate ceramics are covered floor to ceiling in hand embroidered silk.
The ceilings are masterpieces of sculptured plaster and incredible oil
paintings. Talking about seeing how the other half lived.
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| The word 'opulent' is not strong enough to describe the Palau de Dos Aguas |
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| Every ceramic tile in the kitchen was hand painted. |
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| The aptly named 'Red Room' adjoins the ball room |
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| The orchestra alcove is hidden behind the lattice screen on the right of the ball room which still features its magnificent original furniture |
We made the
compulsory visit to Valencia’s vast, imposing cathedral complete with its
octagonal bell tower known as the Micalet
which serves as the symbol of the city. That was followed by a nice salad and paella
with an excellent local wine at one of the many open air establishments lining
the Placa de la Reina.
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| Our lunchtime view across the Playa de la Reina to the Cathedral and its bell tower |
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| Inside the 14th Century Cathedral of Valencia |
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| Now that's a serious paela pan. |
It was then a
case of simply losing ourselves down the narrow streets and laneways, enjoying
the architecture of the old city and soaking in the atmosphere before taking
the metro for the quick and very convenient trip directly back to our marina.
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| Valencia turned it on as we celebrated 300 days since we'd moved onboard and made Alcheringa our home. We suitably toasted the occasion and got this great photo of the boat with the sun setting behind |
We had
planned to get back underway towards Barcelona on Wednesday morning but a look
at the forecasts ruled that out. A
strong blow with winds of 45 knots or more was heading our way from the north.
Instead of leaving, we spent the morning getting the boat all secured ready to
ride it out in the marina. We shortened up the ground lines on the bow moving the
stern of the boat away from the pontoon by almost a metre and a half. This
would provide clearance if we got any swell surge inside the marina and
hopefully prevent us from banging against the floating dock. We also doubled and
tightly tensioned our stern lines as well as adding two midship lines as a further
precaution. The dinghy was very tightly lashed down on the bow and, to prevent
any sail being blown out, the sailbag lashed up tight to the boom and the genoa
sheets wrapped around and around the furling headsail and tied off. Then it was
just a matter of going around the decks making sure halyards and everything else
was nice and secure, checking all the knots on our fenders etc and waiting for
the weather to arrive. Oh! There was one other job we almost forgot to do as
Rob nipped around to the marina office and booked us in for another two nights
before we got kicked out.
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| This forecast was easily enough to keep us tied to the dock |
By the
afternoon, the wind was a steady 25+ knots and the sea on the other side of the
very high breakwater the marina is located behind was already looking pretty
nasty. This time the weather gurus were spot on. The wind built through the
night and by morning we had a gale blowing with some swell making it through
the channel between the breakwaters and entering the marina. We left our instruments
on to keep an eye on the wind strengths and saw as high as 48 knots (88kph) on
our gauge. The noise was incredible. It was like being on a train with no
windows charging through a long tunnel at
high speed except there was a lot more clackety clack. The sound of halyards clattering
against aluminium masts on boats all over the pontoons and creaking ropes being
tightly stretched was far too loud to be drowned out, even by the howling wind.
This was all accompanied at times by
driving rain.
We shot this before the wind peaked. The rain made it a little difficult to get the camera out later.
Apologies to users of I-Pads and I-Phones who may not be able to view the video as Apple does not support blogspot.com's video format.
As you could
imagine, it was fairly uncomfortable on the boat. Therefore Karen decided this
was the perfect day to spend in the marina’s laundrette getting all our washing
done rather than rocking around onboard wasting time. All the bunks were
stripped of their linen. Rob’s, Karen’s and the absent Marc’s clothing worn
over the previous few weeks was gathered up and bagged. There was more than
enough to form a considerable pile in the salon. The fun part proved to be
getting it all on and off the boat.
Depending on the gusts and swells, Alcheringa’s
stern was surging around fairly strongly anywhere between a metre and a metre
and a half away from the pontoon. Our hardwood gangplank is two metres long.
The movement of the boat was way too severe to merely drop it across the gap
and expect it to stay there. Rather it was a case of Rob putting it in place,
dashing across to the dock with a shopping bag of washing over his shoulder and
hanging onto the plank’s securing lines while Karen made her run over the
swirling water carrying another bag full. We couldn’t put the bags down on the
pontoon and return for more as they would have very quickly disappeared across
the water with the wind. We pulled the heavy gangplank onto the dock and proceeded
to the laundry where Karen got things underway.
Rob’s job
was then to make multiple trips, putting the gangplank back in place, crossing
over to the boat, pulling the plank up into the cockpit, getting another bag of
washing from below, replacing the plank, crossing back to the dock, pulling the
plank onto the pontoon and delivering the bags to the laundry. Before long it
was time to reverse the process and take the completed bagfuls back to the boat
as they came out of the dryer. By the
end of the day Alcheringa was very
well stocked with clean linen and clothing while her very tired crew headed to
the showers for their turn. Exhaustion is far more effective than any chemical
sedative and we both dropped off to sleep quickly that night despite the
continuing gale.
We woke to
the delight of near silence in the marina as the wind had abated and the swell
entering the marina was now fairly benign. It was nice to sit down at breakfast
without having to chase your muesli bowl across the table. A check of the
forecasts however revealed a repeat of the previous day’s conditions was now
expected on Sunday. After a strong blow, the sea remains rough for quite a
while so it was now unlikely we’d be going north before Tuesday at the
earliest. Barcelona was beginning to appear a long way away. There was nothing else
for it but to make another trip to the marina office and extend our booking
again.
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| A sure fire indicator that the sea state was still up was to be seen just on the other side of the breakwater. Surfing in the Med. Who'd have guessed. |
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| The previous day's gale had washed sand all over the paved promenade which is normaly 300 metres from the water's edge |
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| The giant National and Regional flags in the marina didn't fare so well in the wind either |
We made the most of the delay with another trip into the old city and visits to culturally contrasting sites such as Valencia’s amazing old central station, the excellent art gallery and the huge bullring. In typical ‘Only in Spain’ fashion, the bullring was actually hosting a big ‘Oktoberfest’ complete with huge tent decorated as a German Beer Hall erected centre ring. Apparently no one has told them it’s April.
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| The river through Valencia used to flood so they diverted it and converted the old riverbed into one, continuous winding park many miles long still with its old bridges crossing over. |
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| Catholic Spain's galleries feature a heavy presence of religous art |
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| Valencia's impressive bullring and what else would you expect to find inside in April other than an Oktoberfest German Beer Hall. What the????? |
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| Click on any image to see larger versions |
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| Valencia's grand old station proved to be very grand on the inside |
Despite the dire forecast, Sunday’s weather proved slightly anti-climactic. The rain returned. The wind was strong, and this time very cold, but never approached the ferocity of Thursday. Likewise the swell that did make it past the protective breakwaters was very mild and of no real consequence inside the marina. We simply sat things out onboard skyping our daughter Yasmin and granddaughter Lyla, reading and blogging.
As we’ve been delayed, Marc will now meet us here in Valencia on Tuesday rather than at Barcelona and, weather gods and gurus willing, we’ll now get back underway northwards on Wednesday.
Fingers crossed.
MARINA REVIEW: Marina Real Juan Carlos 1 ****1/2
(Appears in the Pilot Guide as the Americas Cup Marina)
Cost per night for our 43 foot (13.2m) yacht – 24.20 Euro (Included water, power and WiFi)
Large, modern marina with good protection from the elements and secure, floating pontoons. Helpful, friendly staff. Excellent access to Valencia via metro with tram stop adjacent to the marina.
Large, modern marina with good protection from the elements and secure, floating pontoons. Helpful, friendly staff. Excellent access to Valencia via metro with tram stop adjacent to the marina.
Chandlery, bars, restaurants onsite. Post Office and supermarket close by.
While the bathroom facilities were OK they weren't up to the standard of the rest of the marina.
We rate it as a highly recommended marina.
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| Marina Real Juan Carlos 1 is extremely well presented, ideally located and proved a great place for our Valencia stop over |
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