Diving into the enchanting world of Taka Bonerate, a marine park hidden in Indonesia's heart, just southwest of Sulawesi, is simply amazing. Here, the crystalline waters tempt adventurers from all walks of life, offering a scintillating tapestry of barrier reefs, atolls, sloping drop-offs, and flat seabeds. It's no wonder that Taka Bonerate holds the title of the third-largest atoll region, globally, trailing behind Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands and Suvadiva in the Maldives.
Rising dramatically from the depths of 2000 meters, this atoll is a remnant of a colossal, collapsed volcano. Straddling the edge of the Coral Triangle, it's blessed with a rich marine biodiversity, making it one of the world’s most biodiverse hotspots. It's a place of magic and wonder.
The park's 28 atoll islands, only seven of which are inhabited, are the epitome of serene beauty, with pristine, white sandy beaches and sheer-walled cliffs. During low tide, some coral flat areas become visible as dry land, with water pooled in small deep pools surrounded by coral reefs. The name Taka Bonerate, originating from the Bugis language, means a stretch of coral on the sand, a fitting description of this breathtaking natural wonderland. But there are simply too many islands to explore in one go. However, we’re eager to embark on this journey into this off-the-beaten-track region. Despite its isolation, our 12-meter floating home becomes our ticket to these hidden treasures.
Our adventure begins at Taka Lamungan, a lagoon renowned for its diving opportunities, just 126 nautical miles away from Pasarwajo on Pulau Buton. After a 23-hour voyage, overnight voyage we anchor and relax for the day, lulled by the sound of waves crashing against the unseen reef. The following morning greets us with Brown and Red-Footed Boobies and Lesser Frigate birds soaring above, and the unforgettable snorkelling experience awaits us.
Our next destination, Pulau Jinatung, is a thrill for the adventurous. We find this hidden gem by scouring satellite images. After checking the waters, we anchor our vessel in a shallow patch, surrounded by exquisite coral. Despite the A$75 fee to stay overnight, we decide to rest here before setting sail southward the next morning.
The final island, Pulau Bonerate, is known for its 'pinisi,' here, the local men are celebrated for constructing traditional two-masted wooden boats. We marvel at their skill as we stroll among the unlaunched ships. With just wood and simple tools, they create these vessels believed to require not only strength and technique but also supernatural powers. Exploring the expansive unlaunched pinisi ship flotilla on this secluded island, we encountered shipbuilders who uphold centuries-old shipbuilding traditions with no blueprints, using basic tools and techniques.
These boats have traversed the Indonesian waters since the 14th century, and watching them under construction is a surreal experience. Despite the language barrier, we managed to express our appreciation with a thumbs-up and the word "bagus" (meaning good), which was met with wide smiles.
This journey, sailing in the wake of ancient seafarers, offers a unique glimpse into the rich history and seafaring culture of the Bugis people, dating back to prehistoric times, makes this seldom-visited island truly special. It's an experience that transforms the concept of adventure, making it truly unforgettable.
“Bonerate people" reside on Pulau Bonerate, located in the middle of the Flores Sea. They identify themselves as "Orang Bonerate" and are known by the same name by their neighboring communities. Westerners have associated them with both Bugis and Selayar people. The majority of Bonerate individuals are Muslims with strong animistic beliefs. They believe in a powerful sea spirit, often perceiving stormy weather as the spirit's anger, leading to various ceremonies to appease it.
The primary language spoken is the Bonerate language, consisting of two dialects: Bonerate and Karompa, belonging to the Muna-Buton linguistic group, which includes East Buton, Cia Cia, Kaimbulawa, Busoa, and Wakatobi.
Bonerate is seldom visited by tourists, except for yachts en route to Flores. Witnessing the open-air boatyard is a unique experience. Interacting with the locals and strolling through the village and beaches provides insight into island life and the boats seen in the surrounding seas.
Bonerate has experienced a gradual population decline as residents relocate to other Sulawesi regions like Makassar, Kendari, and Toli-Toli for education and job opportunities. Some have shifted to urban markets as cloth and bread vendors, while others seek fertile land in Toli-Toli and Kendari.
The island economy revolves around shipbuilding, fishing, and farming, focusing on cassava, sweet potatoes, cloves, and sago palm cultivation. Due to dry land, growing diverse vegetables is challenging, necessitating imports. Marine delicacies like seaweed, teripang, lola, and bole-bole supplement their diet. Bonerate dwellings are elevated on platforms for storage underneath, neatly aligned in rows across the island. Housing lack bathrooms, so residents conduct bathing and hygiene activities along the shoreline.
We felt very welcome walking throughout the village, being welcomed into people’s homes and sharing laughs as we tried to communicate with our limited Indonesian.
Thanks for catching our latest Blog, cheers R&K
You can watch the YouTube Episode that covers our Taka Bonerate experience here
▶️ https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp94
A collection of photographs that tell the story of Pulau Bonerate
You maybe also be interested in the following 🔽
We found paradise but we may never leave as our anchor is stuck solid. You can watch it here.
▶️ http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87
If you are travelling to Indonesia by boat you maybe interested in the following guides.
This interactive Ebook takes from Brisbane to Horn Island without a night passage, discovering beautiful parts of the Queensland coast rarely visited. The EBook supplies all of our tracks and anchorage waypoints, with what anchoring conditions we were in. But it also gives you full details of what to see and do at each remarkable destination.
You can find out more about this EBook here ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/pxLMX
Is this your first time into Indonesia? This amazing country has so much too offer the cruiser. What we can say is sometimes paperwork can be overwhelming. This interactive guide is to help you wade through the
officialdom and come out the other side without tearing your hair out.
You can find out more about this guide here ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/YEeQ7
If you would like to buy all 4 of the above EBooks to help your sailing journey you can at a discount. Because you have read to this far on our blog, as a thank you we say here’s 20% off the bundle price!
So head to our book store ▶️ https://payhip.com/Dreamtimesail
and use this code at checkout ▶️ WOTZCNM6JL
No comments:
Post a Comment
We love to read your comments regarding our blog, what you enjoyed and what you might like to see more of. Please leave us your thoughts.