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| For the 3 boats it was a total of 20 million and 8 Passports. |
We dropped the mooring lines in Wanci-Wanci, Wakatobi to head to Pasarwajo on the eastern coastline on the Island of Buton. This is a scheduled stop for the Indonesian Rally, we though will be taking it as a stop to get our Visa extensions done in BauBau a two hour drive across the peninsula. As the rally had moved a number of the stops and added another into the original schedule, the timeline now was somewhat out of sequence. Not good for those of us that had set crew changes on the original dates.
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| Having a dock at Wanci was definitely a treat |
We had a beautiful sail across to Pasarwajo and after dropping anchor headed into the newly constructed dinghy dock, where an exuberant warm welcome from the volunteers erupted. They were all students from the English Language College , they had volunteered to assist each and every yacht arriving on the rally. These guys and gals were outstanding, nothing was to much trouble and they really made us feel welcome. They accompanied us everywhere to the markets, showing us the best places to eat, arranging motorcycle hire and being there from dawn till our heads hit the pillows at night.
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| Brand new dinghy dock |
The sleepy provincial town of Pasarwajo provides a distinctly more ‘terrestrial’ backdrop than the sandbanks, atolls, and small islands of Wakatobi that we have just left. Together with Wagola and Lingge-Lingge Villages, there are local markets and other small shops to provision. Eating out is also no issue with plenty of good warungs and local street food.
Pasarwajo Bay, is famous for its diving spot and secluded beauty. At first glance this large bay in the southeast coast of the island of Buton is an unlikely candidate to be included in a series about diving top spots of Indonesia. Despite its proximity to Wakatobi’s pristine coral reef systems, Pasarwajo bay is different, both above and below the water.
The fascination of diving in places like Pasarwajo lies not in the in-your-face beauty of coral reef sites, but in the thrill of searching for, spotting, observing, and photographing the rare, odd and captivating creatures that call these kinds of tropical marine habitats home. This sort of diving has become more and more popular over the last 15 years or so, resulting in the development of complete specialised dive regions that cater for its aficionados. In Indonesia alone, Lembeh Strait, Ambon Bay, parts of the Alor archipelago, Komodo and Bali have become well known destinations for critter hunters. It is often called ‘muck’ diving.
Though we didn’t partake in diving in this location due to our time restrictions, we have heard many good recommendations to venture into muck diving here at Pasarwajo. Due to its unspoiled beauty, nature lovers and passionate adventure travellers love coming here to experience beautiful diving and mountain trekking without the tourists.
Of course our main reason to come to Pasarwajo wasn’t to see all of this amazing nature tourism. But to renew our visa’s. Due to our tight schedule we are going to drive to BauBau across the peninsula to the western coastline, instead of stopping at Pasarwajo for the planned rally celebrations, then sailing onto BauBau where the rally would do their visa extensions in a further 10 days time.
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| Nobel our amazing driver and guide |
A car and driver were organised by our helpful volunteers for us the following day and with crew from two other boats we set off to do our visa extensions with Immigration. Now there are a number of ways you could do this at the time of writing (all extensions are now handled online by your agent, you can see more information on this in our Indonesia Awaits guide link below). The way we were doing it ….. Handing 10 million (Rupiah) along with our passports to a person unknown in a shopping centre carpark, was a little daunting. But this is Indonesia and when in Indo you do it the Indo way.
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| Collectively that’s 20 million (Rph) and 8 passports handed over in a car park |
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| This man unknown to us at the time looks way too happy too be taking our wad of cash and passports |
Upon arrival in BauBau you receive the usual storm of “Hello, mister” and “transport” from the locals. Bau-Bau is part of Indonesia where people are not used to seeing foreigners and without any shyness they wave, shout, point fingers and giggle. With so much attention, some might feel like a celebrity, but when you are constantly asked for your “Photo”, some might-be down right irritated by this. Stopping and having your photo taking is time consuming when trying to get jobs done, we understand this all too well. However….. We have found this is a great way to interact with the locals. They are always happy to direct you in the right direction, ride off and come back with exactly what you need or for them to just interact and practice their english. It’s something you take in your stride and you need to get use to being filmed whilst eating. Brad Pitt you’ve got nothing on us in Indonesia 😜😂
The capital of Buton is BauBau this is an interesting coastal town which is presided over by a huge fort that has magnificent views over the town and coast. Pulau Buton is not as impressive as other parts of Indonesia but is rugged nonetheless, and it has some pretty decent trekking. In addition, there are plenty of beaches to check out.
BauBau boasts a rich history and traditional charm, with its standout attraction being the expansive fort towering above the town. This fort holds the title of the world's largest, offering breathtaking views of the city, bay, and nearby island. The fort still showcases its original defensive walls and cannons.
Additionally, Bau Bau features other intriguing sites, such as Kotana village a short distance away, housing the Buton royal palace complex. A mere four kilometers from Bau Bau lies Kamali Badia, the Palace of the Sultan. Visitors can also explore a Hindu Balinese traditional village, picturesque waterfalls, numerous beaches both north and south of Bau Bau, cozy cafes and restaurants, bustling markets, and shops. However, the highlight remains the towering fort with its commanding view over the town and coastline, still preserving its defensive structures.
During our visit, we made a point of exploring some key landmarks:
Buton Fort Palace/Keraton Wolio Fort: The sheer size of this complex is astonishing! As we ascended the hill behind the city, we caught glimpses of the fort remnants. It wasn't until we reached the hill's peak that we truly grasped the vastness of this almost endless fortress.
Buton Fortress stands out as one of Indonesia's most remarkable precolonial forts. Its imposing fortifications encircle the village and crown the hilltop. Covering a total area of approximately 401,911 m2, Buton Palace Fort's design differs from other forts across Indonesia. Constructed in the late 16th century for Sultan Buton III, La Sangaji, also known as Sultan Kaimuddin (1591-1596), the fort served as the Buton Sultanate's residence.
Early in the 17th century, Buton Island had been known as the one of the most adequate ports for European merchant ship. In the past, the power of the Buton Kingdom was actually not comparable to the 2 kingdoms in the eastern part of Indonesia Archipelago, namely the Gowa-Tallo Sultanate and the Ternate Sultanate.
Buton instead became the place where the two kingdoms extracted resources and sent out exiles. Therefore, the power constellation of the Buton Kingdom was greatly influenced by these two Kingdoms. Even today, there are still many stories of attacks from the Pirates of Ternate and Tobelo, so that the Butonese fled to the fortresses at the top of the hill for their protection.
Buton Kingdom actually is the one oldest kingdoms in the Celebes Island. The Kingdom of Buton has kinship ties with the Luwu Kingdom which is seen as the earliest kingdom in Sulawesi and descended the other kingdoms such as Bone, Gowa, Konawe, Buton. In addition, in the 14th century, the Buton Kingdom was recorded as an area controlled by the Majapahit Kingdom. This is in accordance with the notes in the Negarakertagama in verse 14. In Negarakertagama, the name Butung or Buton is part of the Majapahit conquered area in the eastern archipelago along with Makassar, Selayar, Sumba, Maluku, Seram, and Timor.
Visitors are free to wander around the fort, marveling at the stunning views, intricate architecture, and the remarkable construction of this monumental edifice. The fort's coral rock structure, bound together with egg whites, stands as a testament to the ingenuity and labor required to build such a structure on a hill, which still stands strong today.
Within the fort lies the royal graveyard, an intriguing stop, along with the ancient flagpole, cannon emplacements, and the Agung Keraton Buton mosque.
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| Stamped VOC - Dutch West India Company |
Nirwana Beach in Indonesia, known as the heavenly beach, boasts 4 km of white sand that is a sight to behold. Despite being a popular spot, a visit there is truly worth it. This palm-lined beach, though crowded with locals on weekends, offers a picturesque view at the base of cliffs. The best approach is from this cliff top viewpoint overlooking the sea and the stunning white sandy beach, captivating visitors with its beauty.
During weekends, locals gather at the beach to rent pagodas, barbecue satay, and relax in the cool sea breeze. On weekdays, the beach is deserted, with most food stalls closed. A resort on the hill features a restaurant known for its exceptional food, although we did not dine there.
In BauBau, a rare find is a supermarket located in a shopping mall, offering a variety of western food items. Many cruisers find this supermarket a relief as they restocked on essentials like flour, milk, coffee, sugar, butter, cereals, and cheese. While the air-conditioned supermarket lacked the charm of traditional markets, it provided a convenient option for those seeking particular items like cheese, albeit at a much higher price.
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| You can get a little overwhelmed when you find produce that you haven’t seen for months, then to find them plastic shrink wrapped is hysterical |
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| Yep a modern shopping mall |
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| Ice cream in all sizes Rob wanted the 5lt bucket |
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| Lettuce 🥬 what …. lettuce 🥬 never …. |
We have written a dedicated blog on the cost of food in Indonesia and used the supermarket in BauBau as the reference, you can read it here
➡️➡️ http://dreamtimesail.blogspot.com/2024/03/so-how-much-does-it-cost-to-live-in.html
During our visa wait, we explored the countryside on rented motorcycles, a budget-friendly way to travel. Capturing moments with photos along the way, our favourite stop was the warm and welcoming Bajo Village. The government's causeway connection to the floating village aims to promote education by providing a purpose-built school on the main island. The Bajo people lead a simple life centered around the sea's ebbs and flows.
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| Bajo Village |
Whether the Indonesian Bajo are former nomads, or have now lived in coastal villages (which do not include travels and migrations), their intangible heritage remains intriguing. Living in precarious conditions without the ability to accumulate material wealth, their culture focuses on oral traditions and knowledge of the natural and supernatural realms. Their heritage thrives through verbal transmission, emphasizing learning from experienced individuals and memorisation.
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| Simple homes built over water |
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| They maybe simple but they put a smile on your face look at that colour |
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| Australian’s would never get home after a session at the pub |
The Bajo's living situation in Indonesia is often uncertain, lacking property titles and facing potential displacement due to land conflicts or ownership changes. Establishing property rights may take generations, especially for houses built above water on stilts. Many Bajo individuals do not hold residency in Indonesia, presenting a complex challenge as Indonesia attempts to integrate these seafaring communities into society.
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| Everything is collected and brought in by timber canoe |
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| Love the colours |
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| These kids don’t need devices to keep themselves occupied |
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| We gave this little girl a timber game. She tried to give it back a number of times. She couldn’t believe we were giving it to her. |
Our visa extensions were efficiently processed without any requests for bribes or favours, and we received them back earlier than expected through the diligent work of our agent and immigration services.
We found Pasarwajo, BauBau and the island of Buton a really nice place to visit. The people were friendly, the city and surrounding areas had interest and I’m sure we will be back.
You can watch the moving pictures (including us eating 😜)
here ➡️ https://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp92
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| No fish we are not giving up yet |
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| Karen concentrating on the task of dodging ships |
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| Catching up with some of the rally crew |
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| Out on two wheels to discover |
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| An entertaining night put on by the tourism volunteers in Wanci-Wanci |
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| Always happy with a cup of tea |
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| Even the babies give us a wave |
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| I always ask if I can take a photo, I rarely get rejected. This lady was very happy to pose but her face may not show it. |
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| What we found on our bike ride |
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| Chris on top of the world BauBau Fort |
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| The fisherman’s trade |
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| Everything is made from what is found |
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| Everyone is so welcoming, I wonder if our society would be to tourists just walking around taking photos and film of everyday life |
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| We of course had to have lunch in BauBau |
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| At this beautiful restaurant. We were the only ones dining. |
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| These girls are middle school. Junior wear red, middle blue and senior grey. |
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| The population live on fish, whether it be fresh, dried or smoked. |
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| Work Place Health and Safety…. |
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| Our lunch in BauBau with driver Nobel. When we lunch we always pay for our driver and guide to dine with us. |
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| Bajo Village colour |
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| Jax sitting upon a cannon doing her best Cher impersonation |
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| What a beautiful restaurant in a beautiful setting. It must get busy on the weekends it was huge |
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| Cotton from the cotton tree that is spun to make very fine cotton , dyed and then woven into sarong |
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| Such a fascinating tree. The kapok tree produces these pods and when split open they Contains this beautiful soft silk like cotton fibre |
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| This is the Kapok tree where seed pods come from. |
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| Chris in her staring role as an unpaid Youtube model |
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| What a view |
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| These broadwalks are very common |
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| The beach where we had lunch, it was low tide |
Thanks for catching our latest Blog, cheers R&K
You maybe interested in the following 🔽
Indonesia Awaits - an interactive guide to all the officialdom to Indonesia’s entrance and visa’s. See more details ➡️ https://payhip.com/b/YEeQ7
We found paradise but we may never leave as our anchor is stuck solid. You can watch it here. 👉 http://tinyurl.com/DreamtimeSailEp87
If you are travelling to Indonesia by boat you maybe interested in the following guides.
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Is this your first time into Indonesia? This amazing country has so much too offer the cruiser. What we can say is sometimes paperwork can be overwhelming. This interactive guide is to help you wade through the
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You can find out more about this guide here ▶️ https://payhip.com/b/YEeQ7
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